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TWOFOLD CULINARY EXPERTISE

Interview with Ronald Thelemann and René Pusch, the new creative duo in the gourmet restaurant of Thurnher’s Alpenhof 

From Berlin-Mitte to the mountains: has this change of location influenced the way you cook?

Ronald Thelemann: Definitely not. After all, you need years – decades in fact – to discover your own style. Despite the continued development we remain true to our culinary style; but on the other hand the way in which we ensure the culinary well-being of our guests is a question of interpretation. Of course we shall continue some of the culinary traditions of Thurnher’s Alpenhof and let ourselves be inspired by the regional characteristics.

Which new culinary accents do you want to set in Thurnher’s Alpenhof?

René Pusch: We like to cook in a puristic manner and make use of the best methods of preparation which are possible. Our basic style is classical, but this does not stop us from creating a special Thurnher’s burger for the midday menu. Or making a pasta dough using roasted flour for our ravioli – in this way we can create a completely new type of tasting experience. A carpaccio of carp marinated with camomile and lime zest is another example of the pleasure we take in experimentation. Incidently, part of the half-board package will include a three-course children’s menu which is based on the gourmet menu for adults.

How important do you consider it to be that the products you use are regional? 

René Pusch: We find this very important. As chefs we have a duty with regard to the environment and sustainability. We order our freshwater fish from a fishmonger in Zug, who supplies us with excellent products. The fish are killed in the morning and they reach us by lunchtime. The cheese and butter com from the Bregenz Forest and the bread is supplied by the baker’s in Lech. 

Do you take the international clientèle who make up the guests at Thurnher’s when you are planning the menu?

Ronald Thelemann: Yes – and no is the answer to that. On the one hand we don’t want to patronise our guests, but on the other the region in which we live and work should be reflected in the dishes we serve.

Two chefs who share the position of chef de cuisine: that’s quite an unusual arrangement in gastronomy. How do you arrange the division of labour? 

René Pusch: We’ve been doing it for over 20 years. I take over the creative part and Ronald is responsible for the pragmatic side. 
 

And here is an easy-to-follow recipe for the festive season: 
 

Fillet of saddle of rabbit with white beans and butternut squash (serves 6) 

6 fillets of saddle of rabbit (each approx. 80 g)
300 g white beans (soak for 24 hours in water before use)
500 g butternut squash
200 ml whipping cream
300 g shallots
400 ml vegetable fond
90 g butter
5 g tarragon
5 g thyme
Rapeseed oil
Salt, pepper, ginger

White bean purée

• Gently fry 150 g finely chopped shallots in rapeseed oil until tender
• Add the chopped thyme
• Add 200 g soaked white beans
• Continue to fry for a few minutes
• Pour over 250 ml vegetable fond and 100 ml cream
• Cook until tender
• Pour off the liquid and reserve
• Purée the white beans
• Season with butter and salt to taste

White bean sauce

• Bring the cooking liquid from the puréed beans to the boil with 100 ml cream
• Add some cold butter and whisk until smooth
• Season to taste with salt and freshly ground pepper

Cooked white beans
• Cook 100 g white beans in salted water until tender, then drain and plunge into iced water to cool
• Toss in butter
• Add some finely chopped thyme

Purée of butternut squash

• Peel the butternut squash and cut 350 g into small cubes
• Lightly fry in rapeseed oil with 150 g shallots
• Add 150 ml vegetable fond and 100 cream
• Cook until tender and then purée
• Season to taste with salt and freshly grated ginger

Cooked butternut squash

• Peel 200 g butternut squash and cut into cubes.
• Fry in rapeseed oil and season with salt.

Fillets of saddle of rabbit

• Quickly fry the fillets of saddle of rabbit in rapeseed oil
• Put in the oven at 75 °C for approx. 5 minutes, then remove
• Toss in a frying pan with butter and tarragon
• Season with salt and pepper